There is no dearth of pizza spots in Mumbai, leaving the curious pizza lover spoilt for choice. From affordable and popular staples to wholesome artisanal versions, the city has places catering to various pizza preferences. So how does one stand out and entice foodies to return? The answer does not have to be overly complicated. Pass The Salt, a new pizza destination in Fort, shows that it’s all about thoughtfulness and technique. Our recent dinner at the cafe allowed us to taste some of its signature dishes and we experienced a delightful convergence of flavour and texture.
Co-founders Kruti Sanghvi and Vishal Shah first established Pass The Salt as a pizza delivery kitchen during the COVID-19 pandemic. Kruti became a self-taught chef after quitting her job as a biomedical engineer. Operating out of Vile Parle, the cloud kitchen specialised in indulgent Chicago-style deep-dish pizzas and Vienna-style thin-crust pizzas. The former was something Kruti was especially excited to deliver to Mumbaikars. After forming a loyal customer base all over the city, the couple decided to take their venture to the next level and set up a dine-in establishment offering its bestsellers and other innovative dishes.
Eventually, Pass The Salt opened the doors of its cafe in June 2024 in a heritage building in South Mumbai’s Fort area – situated in a bylane opposite St. Thomas Cathedral. You may miss it while strolling down the more popular streets of this historic neighbourhood. But that’s the thrill of finding a hidden gem which is seemingly tucked away in plain sight. Inside the establishment, the decor exudes simplicity and comfort through its checkerboard flooring and seating with B&W stripes. The well-lit space has a casual and warm vibe, creating an atmosphere for relaxation through food. Those wanting to grab a quick bite and drink can also sit at the coffee bar opposite the entryway.
The fully vegetarian menu features sharing plates, calzones, tartines, burrata plates, grilled cheese sandwiches and non-alcoholic drinks, apart from the two signature types of pizzas. The beverages include specialty coffees, artisanal hot brews and cold coffees by the homegrown brand Koinonia Coffee Roasters. We began our meal with a generous portion of the Avocado & Grapefruit Salad, whose wholesomeness contrasted with the indulgence of the Spaghetti Cheese Croquettes. While the cafe doesn’t serve pasta, its alternative use as a filling is fun and gratifying (there’s also a pizza stuffed with Mac & Cheese on the menu). Many of the appetisers feature bread bases, but the croquettes are among the few exceptions.
As we took our time deciding our pizza orders, we sipped on the Chamomile Blue Pea Iced Tea – which turned out to be a rather polarising drink at our table. It’s a unique combination that may win you over or may seem too bizarre to taste. A less risky choice is the refreshing Black Currant Iced Tea with a green tea base. Our favourite beverage discovery of the evening was the Oko-Caribe Iced Latte, made with the eponymous cacao from the Dominican Republic. The cold mocha beautifully balanced the potency of the chocolate and coffee. It also had a subtle hint of bitterness that we loved.
Among the options for the Chicago-style Double Crust Deep Dish Pizza, we selected the San Gennaro (filled with onions, roasted red peppers, banana peppers, marinated black olives and jalapenos). All the deep-dish pizzas here are made with a rich San Marzano sauce and whole milk mozzarella. Our server lifted a slice from the pan to the plate and the sight of the stringy ‘cheese pull’ looked like something out of a foodie dream. As we bit into the crust and through the layers, we closed our eyes in pure enjoyment. The crust was solid enough to carry the weight without contributing much heaviness to the pizza. Despite the apparent decadence of the dish, the freshness and balance of the ingredients ensured we didn’t feel unpleasantly full after eating so much.
The pizza that followed was also a testament to the mastery of technique at Pass The Salt. Among the signature Thin Crust Pizzas, we chose the Hawaiian Barbeque. It’s the only one in this category that doesn’t feature a San Marzano sauce. Detractors of “pineapple on pizza” may disagree, but when executed well, this fruit can lend a wonderful complexity to this beloved treat. And the version here is proof. The sweetness of the juicy marinated pineapple (complemented with grilled onion rings and smooth barbeque sauce) clashed deliciously with the heat of green chillies and red paprika. The other aspect that wowed us was the buttery and flaky base, which was reminiscent of a crispy croissant. It was a notch above a regular thin crust, as it added another dimension to the pizza without stealing the spotlight from the toppings.
For dessert, we tried the Burnt Basque Cheesecake, which was good but needed a creamier texture. We did not get to try the savoury dessert named after the brand as it was over by the end of our dinner. But we relished a heavenly bowl of Salted Caramel Gelato in its place.
Pass The Salt is well worth the hike to Kala Ghoda and is fortunately located just a few hundred metres behind the Flora Fountain. Those already frequenting the area should take advantage of having such a spot in their proximity. And those who cannot make it to the cafe can savour the delights at home (within the extended delivery radius). The pizzas are known to travel quite well, and this is a point of pride for the brand, we are told.
Where: 10, Calcot House, behind Bombay House, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai.